This stunning 6856m peak lies in the Upper Khumbu region of Nepal . It is a fantastic mountaineering objective and is situated amongst some of the world’s best known and most spectacular mountain scenery. We climb the mountain by the classic South West Ridge route – a long and elegant rock and mixed ridge that leads up to the summit snow slopes.
The objective dangers for a mountain of this size are minimal – there is no glacier to negotiate and virtually no danger from avalanche or rockfall. The views of the Lhotse/Nuptse wall, Everest, Pumori, Cho Oyu , Makalu and many other fine peaks are simply superb. The most technical difficulty sections of this climb will be fixed with rope, but it is physically demanding with long days and sections with a lot of exposure.
ITINERARY – Days
Day 1/2 International flight to Kathmandu Nepal , where you will be met and driven to the hotel in the city. We will then need to complete a few formalities regarding trekking/peak permits, before eating out together in the evening to discuss plans for the following days.
Day 3 Fly to Lukla and start the ‘walk in’. The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is short (45 minutes approx) and could be in either a Russian Mi8 helicopter or a Twin Otter aircraft. A short downhill walk takes us to a lodge in Toc Toc where we spend the night. On the ‘walk in’ you will only require waterproofs, spare jacket, water bottle, ie what you need during the day. Your other luggage will be portered to where we are staying each night.
Day 4 Another short day. A short distance beyond Toc Toc we enter the Sargarmartha National Park and then climb steeply up to the Sherpa town of Namche Bazaar in time for lunch.
Day 5 Rest day in Namche Bazaar. This is primarily to aid acclimatisation, but the town is a fascinating place to explore and to hunt for souvenirs.
Day 6 After contouring around the hillside above Namche we drop down to the Dudh Kosi River before climbing up a long steep hill to the monastery at Thyangboche. This is a beautiful spot to spend some time and in addition to the monastery offers superb views of Ama Dablam. We spend the night at Deboche, a short walk downhill beyond Thyangboche.
Day 7 A very short days walk to Orsho, where we spend our first night in tents.
Day 8 We walk up the hillside above Orsho and spend a night at some shepherds huts.
Day 9 Walk back down to Pangboche and spend the night. This along with the previous day will enable to reach the base camp without altitude problems.
Day 10 Walk very gently to the base camp at Mingbo (4600m) set up tents and unpack gear.
Day 11 Those that are feeling fit and well can walk above the camp to roughly 5000m and stash some personal gear.
Day 12 Either walk up to 5000m or rest in camp.
Day 13 A very long day. Walk up to camp one picking up the stashed personal kit on the way and spend the night there.
Day 14 Return to the base camp.
Day 15 Resting at the camp.
Day 16 Walk back up to camp one and spend the night.
Day 17 The real climbing begins. We climb above camp one to beyond the first tower and then return to spend a further night at the camp.
Day 18 Return to base camp.
Day 19 Rest day at base camp.
Day 20 By now we should be very well acclimatised and able to go from base camp to camp one without too much difficulty.
Day 21 Climb above camp one along the ridge to camp two. A long and tiring day.
Day 22 Our summit day. We will leave the tents early in the morning and climb the technically straightforward snow slopes above. There is plenty of time to reach the top and return to camp two in a day.
Day 23 Return to base camp and start to pack up to leave.
Day 24 Walk slowly back down the Khumbu to Pangboche.
The trip is ideally suited to strong experienced climbers who want to climb the peak in its own right, or to use the trip to gain experience with the idea of going on to higher peaks in the future. In recent years the route has been very congested in the post-monsoon period. By going later we will avoid the crowds.
Hotel Tibet in Kathmandu (one night at beginning, two at end of trip). Family run lodges on the trail. Tents at base camp and above.
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